Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Salento

Salento is  a small gem in the Armenia coffee province. It's a bit off the beaten path of the usual backpacker so I didn't know at first whether to visit it or no, but I'm so glad I did it. 
Salento is a small village in the colombian mountains, and it's mostly famous for the Cocora national park situated nearby it. I ended up staying in the hostal Estrella sin Frontiers a very hip and chill joint with people sleeping in tents, playing music in the evening and drinking. The second day I arrived we decided to go the Cocora park. To do that you need to take a jeep, that are generally overcrowded and 3 of us guys decided to hang onto the roof and stand on the back bumper. Mind you this is something unheard of in the US, I know from personal experience from being stopped by the cops for putting my head out of the window, and i wasn't even driving :) But this is what made it an amazing experience, US is so closed off to doing things outside of their "normal, safe" way of life that they miss these little glimpses of joy and happiness that you get by simply riding on the back of an open jeep.
The scenery unveiled in its full splendor from the back of the jeep.
Cocora scenery is straight out of Jurassic Park movie characterized with sweeping hills and ridiculously tall palm trees.
These are the "ridiculously tall" palm trees I keep talking about.
We started hiking in this amazing scenery.
The first stop was a small waterfall that is well hidden in the rainforest.
Myself trying to keep balance on a "suspension" bridge :)
As you get to the top, the valley unveils in its full beauty, with mountain crests showing through the scattered clouds.
At the top, there is a mirador that overlooks the surrounding mountains.
The returning road takes you through a pine tree forest, covered in dense fog, making it even more mystical.
Photo of the day!
Myself marveling at the pine trees.
As we descended into the valley, the fog kept playing games with us, hiding this majestic beauty from hunger eyes.
Myself being really happy I discovered this place.
The fog started to lift up a little bit showing the valley in its true beauty.
This pic really reminds me of Jurassic park.
Plantation of ridiculously tall palm trees.
Another pic of the day, they're just so easy to snap in this place. I love the rays of the setting sun scattering through the clouds.
On the ride back, some more people enjoying the "out-of-the" jeep experience.
The next morning I decided to take a coffee tour, on one of the multiple coffee farms in Salento. The backdrop of this village is majestic, with mountains and valleys sweeping through the coffee plantations.
A river snaking a the bottom of the valley.
Coffee plantation on the side of a hill.
My destination in the far distance. The trees on the left are Plantane trees, family of bananas.
Among coffee trees you can plant other vegetation that helps provide shade to the coffee and fertilize the soil, among which is pineapple. Apparently, pineapple is a collection of flowers and not a fruit, who knew :)
 On the way back from the coffee farm I stumbled upon this amazing place. It was a stretch of green grass with mountains in the background. I liked it so much that I spent the evening there, just sitting on the grass and reading.

The setting sun colors as seen from my newly found home ;)



 As I walked back toward Salento, the path lead me next to this river...



 ...with the majestic sun setting behind the pine trees on the parapet.



 The next morning, in the spirit of "I have to experience as many things in life as possible", i decided to take a horse tour. Olga would be approving of this :)



  I ended up again the only person in the group and had a personal guide. The trip was amazing, through narrow pathways and wide roads, steep hills and water streams, toward a waterfall.



Me manning my white mustang :)



Finally we got to the waterfall.



 Los Caballeros :) we kinda look like brothers too.



 On the way back, I managed to get a proper photo with my transport :) and, of course, dear friend.



Doing the cowboy thing!



 My trusty guide returning to Salento. I like their strong, willfull profiles indicating strong character, you have to bee if you want to ride horses.


I will miss you dearly the lovely town of Salento. The place is so amazing in scenery and people so nice and friendly that this really has to be a must see destination for travelers, but only travelers, please, no tourists! I hope to come back to this small amazing gem in the coffee region of colombia one day, to taste its precious coffee grains one more time...

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Quito and Quilotoa

After a long traveller's way, through the mountains, coast and jungle i finally reached the capital of Ecuador - Quito - Luz de America :) a city that is truly shaped by the mountains that surround it. This is the reason Quito is so long and narrow, because on both sides it is bordered by steep mountains, preventing its expansion and creating one gorgeous view from the city center.
Of course when you're in Quito you have to visit Mitad del Mundo. This is a museum about the settlement of the equator line. There are actually a bunch of small museums on the premises of Mitad del Mundo, with very interesting information regarding how the original equator line was settled and the circumference of the earth calculated. However, with the appearance of GPS it turns out that the calculated equator line is actually about 200m off south from the actual one, thus the existence of another museum...
the museum Inti-Naan is exactly this. However besides the actual equator line it has a bunch more interesting experiments to perform on each side of the equator line (one involving the infamous direction of water flushing).

of course everyone wants to take a pic at the equator line...
Then i visited the TeleferiQo, or cable car to one of the neighboring mountains to get a view of the city.

As we went up in the cable car, the views were amazing...

Very soon though the city was engulfed in clouds since at the equator it rains every day at around 4pm.
Every country has its "Vladimir Ilich" statue :)
The next day I went to visit La Basilica cathedral. I gotta say, I've been in many cathedrals in south america and europe but this one was in my opinion the most beautiful of them all.
Gorgeous frescas occupied every one of its massive windows and the entire setting breathed of peace and tranquility. If you're ever in Quito this is a must see in my opinion.
The streets of the historical part of Quito.
Me posing with a classic guard of the presidential palace. On the left is my good buddy Marco. I met him while crossing the border from Peru to Ecuador and he was so nice as to give me his contact info and said to call him up when I was in Quito. While in the city, he truly proved a great host, meeting with me every evening and telling me what to see/do in his hometown and even gave me a gift at parting :) It's people like this that truly inspire hospitality, generosity and represent how truly friendly are the south american people.
Me and Marco, exploring one of the myriad gorgeous old churches in the capital city.
Me admiring the city from one of its highrise parks.

The view from the city is truly amazing, mountains rule here.




My last day in Quito I went to Laguna Quilotoa. This is a crater of a volcano, now filled with water and surrounded by volcano peaks. You can walk around the laguna on the peaks or you can go down to the  water, which is what we chose to do, otherwise the trip takes 2 days.
This place is really huge...

The water of the laguna is actually salty, and the legend has it that it connects to the ocean through a tunnel underground. Having stayed at the water level i decided to go up on a different path than the main one...surprise? :) I figured I gotta explore everything around this place. These are the views you get.


Climbing higher on the path. you can see the main path curving in the distance.
Self shot just to prove that I was there :)
On the way to Colombia from Quito you pass some ridiculous scenery like this mountain + volcano peaks dancing together in unison. But the best scenery I've seen is after you cross the border with Colombia on the road to Cali. By the way, Colombia received me with the most warmest welcome on the border that I've gotten so far in my travels. The people here are awesome!