Monday, May 27, 2013

Reflections...


So here I am on the Greyhound bus bound to Sacramento, being waited by my parents, who have missed me dearly all this time. I feels refreshing  but different from all the other thousands of km traveled on the bus on the South American roads. The Greyhound bus is nice, it's huge and has AC, something not present in any buses I've taken in the past couple of months. The seats are mounted far from each other, such that everyone has lots of leg space, but, at the same time, this space, this invisible, impenetrable  wall of air separates all of us. It's a different feeling being here, I feel alone, unlike in crowded south american buses, sitting among families with small children, gasping for a fresh breath of air from an open window while the bus shuddered and shook from another pothole on the road ... it doesn't sound too great from the side, but it felt like an adventure, the lack of the bounding rules gave these experiences a feeling of freedom that is simply absent in the highly organized, well ruled and designed western society.

I had this thought a while ago in my travels when trying to compare the western way of life and the south american, attempting to equate this to the quality of life. Of course, this question is fundamentally poorly posed because everyone's priorities and thus perception of the quality of life is different and thus any comparison is highly personal. Furthermore, one would only be able to judge that having lived a period of time in the western culture and in the south american countries (when I say south american countries I really mean all of them with the exception of Chile, Argentina and now Brasil, that have pretty much adapted the US way of life). I haven't lived in south america, and my only encounter with the working population was when doing some repair on the sailing boat in Cartagena, an experience that somewhat annoyed me with its slowness. But at the same time, there is so much to learn from the south american way of life. Their tempered nature is so refreshing and calming to the western way of life, that it throws any expectations immediately out of the window, and when a person is exposed to a way of doing things other than how "it must be done" it's already progress, it's already learning, already "thinking outside the box". Even if you realize (as I have) that some things are indeed done better in the western world, still you may find that some others aren't, and their brilliance and simplicity will conquer you, changing how you think, how you see the world, how you live... This is what travel really gives you - the experience of living life in a different way than what you've been told to do since childhood, what you've seen in your friends, and what's accepted as the universal "good" way of life. You get to experience 2 things: the culture in which you're immersed (you just have to open yourself to it) and life on the road, with just a small sack on your back. If the first experience is a journey through the outside physical world, the second one is a quest within you, within your perceived powers and capabilities and freedoms. I say "perceived powers" because these are the first boundaries that break as you set out on your journey. After a few days on the road with nothing but your backpack, you'll feel a freedom and an inner power that comes from within, a power that makes you the master of your path, your journey, making you realize that everything is easier than you thought and, indeed, as someone once told me "the hardest decision you'll have to make while travel is the one to start travelling". Sure you'll make mistakes, sure you'll fall, and there will be nobody to pull you back up again, but you'll do it by yourself, you'll learn quickly, you'll push your limits in this self quest, thus building self reliance and belief and trust in yourself. You'll make decisions everyday and learn to trust them and to correct them when the outcome gets out of control, thus you'll learn about yourself. Sure living the sedentary life can give you similar insights, or better yet more useful ones pertaining to living a "productive and exemplary" life in this society, but it's a different set of experiences. When you leave all your material possessions behind (with the exception of clothes, some tools, your hands and knowledge) your shoulders become weightless and open, and that state somehow triggers a psychological openness to try new things, meet new people, experience different cultures, learn to live in a different way. Once you experience that, you'll never go back, because knowledge cannot be undone, once you unlock that black box you'll know exactly what's inside and you'll never be the same. And i'm glad that it is so...

The experience of travel has elevated the meaning of "eat, pray, love" to a whole level of new heights for me. It's a quintessential motto and, at the same time, summary of my personal travel story. It represents the gastronomical, spiritual and personal journeys one is bound to experience in his/her voyage, provided that they are open to these experiences (generally travelers are the kind of people that are open to much more than that :)) The spiritual and physical journeys are really one and the same thing, different faces of one entity, dancing together intertwining and supporting each other, after all "love" is a purely spiritual feeling very much affecting our physical world. This blurring of physical/spiritual boundaries, combined with the freeing power you get to first hand experience while travelling strengthens an idea once expressed by my wise friend KumooJa "we are all magicians, and we dream our world into being". The statement gives each one of us ultimate authority over our lives, power to mold it into whatever we want to experience, change it, redirect it into whatever makes us happy, isn't this the ultimate goal of a human life?

I am extremely grateful and happy to being capable of travel, to having met amazing, wonderful people on my path, travelers and locals. They came in exactly the right moment and at the right circumstances to bring me to the point where I am right now (sitting in a greyhound bus :P). Every one of them is a source of knowledge, experience, and love at the same time, "magicians" in their own right. Indeed, more important than the cultural treasures, historical and natural sites and places of interest in a country are the people. The living creatures who reflect and represent their culture, who through their warmth and friendliness set the tone of the country and who, for me, became primary travel destinations on any journey.

So I return home, to a steady job (or something like that) a sedentary life of some sort, but at the same time I know I'll never be the same, because knowledge can't be undone, because I liked too much that empowering fresh feeling of being on the road with minimal possessions...and it doesn't have to stop. Although the formal travels are over now, but the journey through life never stops, it's always an adventure, a trial, a chance to learn new things, experience, meet people, see nature, camp out, sleep in a hammock, do whatever makes you happy, whatever empowers you...you can be a traveler through everyday life! There is a Brasilian proverb stating "the saint next door doesn't perform miracles", it's true, and sadly i realized this only after being far away, but it's never too late to change. And whenever the journey through life becomes too "sedentary", too predictable and cliche, there are still so many countries I haven't seen, so many places to experience and live through, so many people to meet...i just hope I'll never loose the courage and the open mind to do that. In the end, the journey never stops, we are all travelers though life, backpackers on the world's roads, most of us just don't see it as such. So live free, don't let worldly possessions weigh down your back, live and feel through every minute of your existence as if it's completely new, travel often, and open your mind and heart to adventures, people, love...

Monday, May 20, 2013

Cartagena Marina

The last few weeks of my stay in South America I spent in the Cartagena Marina. My original plan, that inspired and fueled this entire trip was to catch a sailboat from the Cartagena port to somewhere in the Carribean, the Grenadines or San Blas islands. But unfortunately, this is easier said than done. Surely there are boats leaving every week from Cartagena to Panama, but they charge money, $450 to be exact. And even though that's not that much comparatively speaking, I didn't want to be merely a passenger on a sailing boat, I wanted actual sailing experience, tiller time and adventure, i wanted to work as deck hands on a sailboat, but not get paid, i was willing to work for free just for the fun of sailing. Unfortunately, that's nowadays very, very hard to find. I tried, I tried my best, but all my attempts seemed futile or fell through, as if fate itself was preventing me to go sailing in the Carribean. 

This was up until, I got lucky to meet german guy, owner of a 30 footer sailing vessel that needed crew to sail to Cancun. Needless to say that I was extremely excited to have randomly come upon this spark of luck, just when I lost all hope... The boat needed some work, among which were a main sail needing repair of reefing points, dingie outboard repair, and replacement of the windows, which were cracking and leaking due to the sun and age. So I moved to the boat and we started repairing all these issues. We were working from morning till sunset, and in the evening barbecuing on the boat's grill. Sleeping on the bench outside with a veiw of the Carribean southern sky, on a boat rocking in the waves - a really special experience, at least for me - a sailing heart.  This is also when i got in direct contact with the caribbean working culture. I praise the Caribbean, and to that effect the south american way of life, they are extremely patient, chill, and in general happy people, enjoying life at a slow pace, that allows them to taste every moment, every second of their existence. This is something, the western culture has long lost, in its avarice and pursuit of money, capital and worldly possessions. We're running through our lives after imaginary goals, after perceived states in this society, being possessed by our work and incapable to stop and appreciate the time we have devoted in this life. It's a vicious circle and unfortunately our understanding of success and happiness is based on this foundation that work fulfills our lives and it actually does up until it actually becomes our lives...  The south americans seem to not live by this life philosophy, it is part of their culture to fully enjoy their free time and work at their own, relatively slow, pace :) You don't immediately feel this attitude when you travel, since you don't interact with most of their working class, but once you do, it's really apparent. It mostly comes up when you need some work done quickly, because your further work depends on it, for example, and you're constantly being misled by their promises of a quick turnaround time that never comes true. This exact example came up when we were waiting for windows for the sailing boat to be cut to shape from acrylic by a small shop. The windows were supposed to be delivered on Monday evening, a good time to install them, since over night the cool temperature would allow the sealing caulk to properly solidify. They were delivered 2 days later. I'm not a fan of the "live to work" way of life which is seen more and more in the western world, but I like to get things done well and timely, and this is what's missing in the state of mind of the caribbeans. But then again, i don't know if there is a place/country that has this perfect balance between work productivity and a tranquil pace of life, allowing its enjoyment, simply because every person has its own balance and the scales are tipped on a personal level for each of us. 

Over this week of living and working on the sailboat I've met tons of great people, captains from all over the world that have tens of years of sailing experience, have been all over the world, have built, lived and sailed boats...amazing people with an equally interesting way of life. It's not everyone this way of life, but it surely is an adventure. The marina in Cartagena, called Club Nautica, overlooks Bocagrande, the new part of Cartagena, resulting in one of the most breathtaking sunsets I've seen. I know i say that about every sunset, but the presence of sailing boats made these so much more special for me :))) 
 Bocagrande in the background.
 There are some really well taken care of old ships in the marina, with double masts, wood decks and hulls, reminiscing of Cartagena's sailing heritage.

 Boats are moored everywhere, near the marina docks and far out in the Cartagena's harbor.
 A very special boat for me... note the name :)
 As the sun sets, the colors intensify.
 I had a favorite spot on the dock between a few sailing boats, such that nobody could see me. There I spent almost every evening, after a long day of work in the arid sun. go ahead, call me a romantic, i'm not ashamed of it...
 long exposure shot with a cat in the foreground.
 The next evening brought a similar gorgeous sunset...
A couple enjoyed the scenery from a rowing boat.

But in the end, fate won. A few things changed in the german captain's plans that prevented him from sailing to Cancun, and later on, even to Panama. I decided not to go against fate, since the last time i did that it resulted in me getting into a small car fender bender, and return home on a plane. Thus, unfortunately, the original reason for doing the entire trip wasn't fulfilled, but then again maybe this wasn't really a reason at all. How many times do we get involved into something for a wrong reason, or for a reason that later turns out to be completely out of place or irrelevant? What I got out of the trip was completely different from sailing the caribbean but therefore much more important because it was unknown, it taught me new things...

Besides, there's always a next winter to go sailing in the carribean...maybe next time as a captain ;)

Friday, May 10, 2013

Taganga and Playa Blanca, Cartagena, Take 2

Taganga
On my way back to Cartagena from Riohacha, you get to rediscover all those places you've visited on the way there but haven't quite appreciated :) Taganga is one of those places. Apparently it's one of the best and cheapest places around the world to get certified in diving, given all those times that Artem suggested I try it, I finally decided to give it a go...


Given the 5-6 different diving schools and agencies in Taganga you have a variety of gear and quality to choose from. I wanted to do a discover dive just to get a feel for it and see if I would enjoy it. So here I am, after a bit of instruction and a first tryout dive we are on a boat prepared to properly do a flip backward to get in the water, just like you see in the movies :D
 Here I go...
 My hair is doing wonders under the water - Dragon-ball-Z style :P
 Doing OK on the sea floor and waiting for everyone to sumberge.
Ihtiandr :)
 The same day I went to the local beach for some relaxation time. This is a shot of Taganga city beach from a nearby hill peak.
 Sunsets in Taganga are really breathtaking, given the multitude of fishing boats and the mountainous backdrop.
 I hope you can forgive me of the multitude sunset pictures, they help me remember...
 No comment :)
 I love the part of the evening when the sun has already set but the horizon and the atmosphere is still lit by its setting rays and glows in the warmest colors.

Playa Blanca
 When I got back to Cartagena I realized I didn't really want to stay longer in this town, it's nice and all but I think it's a bit overhyped. So i decided to check out the next best thing ... a gorgeous white sand beach near the city called Playa Blanca, Baru. I took a fishing boat from the fishing port, this way you don't have to pay the 15,000COP fee for using the tourist dock :) it was quite an experience, just don't get there in a "need to go now" mood because you'll probably be stuck at the dock until the boat fills up with people and provisions. Once you get to the beach it's beautiful, the clearest water I've seen in whole of South America you could examine the floor even without snorkeling gear and the carribean is soo warm  you don't ever want to get out of it.
 The sunset at Playa Blanca, I stayed overnight. You can say they all look alike but every single one of them is associated with different experiences for me making them worlds apart...

 "I was there photo" :)
Next morning I woke up to a cloudy sunrise and warm waters. Decided to try something I always wanted to do - a ride on a jetski.
So here I am riding in the distance...
 15min later (that's all i really needed to get a feel for it :)
 looking badass :) it's cool to ride a jetski but I think i wouldn't want to do it again, especially for rental prices.
 Enjoying a fine lunch on the beach. I'm missing a bottle of Corona with lime for a billboard advertisement photo.
Immersing in the crystal blue waters
 The boat ride back to Cartagena was pretty awesome as well. I sat in the bow of the motorboat jumping up and down over the incoming waves as we planed over the waters. It's actually not as fun as it might seem from the description, you really have to hold yourself down and the motion is rather violent, you don't get comfy damping seats either.
 Bocagrande, the Cartagena's rich neighborhood, in the foreground.
There was some sort of military boat showcase event in Cartagena those days so I got some pretty awesome shots of this warship with it's crew on deck.
Bocagrande.

La Guajira, Riohacha and Cabo de la Vela

La Guajira is a bit off the beaten path of the everyday south american traveler  It's the northern most part of Colombia, a peninsula spanning hundreds of kilometers of dunes, sand and carribean shore. Generally only people knowing about it and those brave enough to venture to Venezuela arrive here. This makes it really peaceful and quiet, a place where you as a traveler, can get almost lost between the local people and be free of hagglers and vendors trying to sell you everything on the planet. Certainly this was very needed for me :)

Riohacha
 This is the capital of the county La Guajira, also the largest town situated on the beach spanning as far as your eyes could see and precipitated with tall palm trees, standing in white sand.
 The beach is gorgeous, and most of the working days it's empty, proving again that the hungry eye of the tourist hasn't yet reached this place.
 There is a boardwalk that leads you into the ocean (although not very far :)) It is intensely windy here with tons of waves, making this an almost ideal spot for kitesurfers and windsurfers, given that you're on the intermediate advanced level, cause the waves will give you a beating otherwise.
 The evenings here are most memorable with fishing boats stationed on the shore making a perfect backdrop.
 I love the sun reflection on the wet sand...
 Baywatch photo :)
 Poseidon himself captures the red sun in its infinite span of waters.
 Evening colors on long exposure.
 More sunset pictures :) The truth is that's pretty much what I did for 3 days in Riohacha, walk around during the day, read, write etc and take photos of the sunset in the evening. Surely you can find more touristy things to do there, but I didn't come there for it... Overall this place is magical, I can't quite pinpoint what exactly makes it so, but sometimes you just have a feeling and it is irrelevant to try to explain it with our rational brain...

Cabo de la Vela
This is a small fishing village in the northern most part of the La Guajira peninsula. It is bordered by the carribean shore on one side and sanddunes on the other. Because of the vicinity of the desert and the ocean this place gets everyday winds of up to 40knts, making it an ideal spot for kitesurfing ...
 To get to this village is an adventure by itself. First you take a camioneta, a truck with seats in the back,  with local Wayuu people to an intersection of major roads 4 Vias.
 Then you take another camioneta to a small village Uribia. This is the shot of my truck where I was standing on the back bumper :) Check out the local's shoes, they're hand sawn and glued to a cutout of an old used car tire serving as the sole. Super brilliant idea, innovative and sustainable :)) I bet they last a long time too, given that the rubber is usually Goodyear or something of that high quality.
 The last leg of the trip is on the back of another pickup truck on dusty bumpy roads for about 2. You ride with 8 more people and the back of the truck full with provisions, gasoline, food, water, beer whatever, since the trucks are the only way to provision the small village.
 But in the end you reach this amazing stretch of the calmest water I've ever seen, very shallow and clear. You get to sleep in hammocks right on the beach and bathe from a bucket :) but what do you really need more???
 On the other side of the village you can see the wide span of dry small plants characteristic of desert vegetation.
 There is nothing to do in the village but chill around, read, sleep, swim and of course kitesurf :)) That's pretty much what i did for 3 days. Now there are definitely sights to check out and i hear the sunset is amazing to watch from one of the nearby tall rocks but you can read all about that in some other blog, or better yet come check it out yourself. But for me...it was amazing kitesurfing :D
 Flying fast...
 Kitesurfing in the evening rays of light.
 Another amazing sunset. I think i'm addicted to them at this point ;)

Palomino Beach
On the way back to Santa Marta we stopped for a night at Palomino beach, located between Riohacha and Tayrona national park.
This place is very cool, again being not overrun too much by tourists. There we slept again in hammocks on the beach and prepared food on an actual fire (although it took us about 2 hours to cook it :) cause the wood was wet from the rain the previous night. I love this photo it showcases all the 3 levels of colombian scenery, the sea and rivers, the jungle in the middle and tall Tayrona peaks in the background.
 On the way out of Palomino I snapped a few more picks of this natural beauty.